I grew up steeped in history, stories, and the Presbyterian Church (note: this is not a proselytizing post). My mother may have moved to her husband’s hometown, surrounded by what seemed like hundreds of his kinfolk, all attendees of the local First Christian Church (Disciples of Christ), but she was not going to give up her family’s devotion to all things Presbyterian. So for a while, the young married couple attended two different churches on Sunday morning, just a few doors down from one another on Main Street.
My paternal grandmother’s keen ears caught whispering about this peculiar practice (this was the late 1960s), and she took my father aside. With what I imagine were a few choice words, she informed him that she would not listen to gossip about her only – and much adored – child, and he would attend church with his wife. So my father became a Presbyterian, and there isn’t a Sunday I don’t sit in church now and think about him: the pointed look when my sisters and I were giggling too much, or the twinkle in his eye when he would sing and sway back and forth, well aware that his lack of musical talent prompted more stifled laughter from us.
The point of this story is that visiting the various small Presbyterian churches (and cemeteries) of my mother’s people was part of the historic education of my childhood. Chief among the buildings was a small, handsome brick church from the 1860s in the rural community of McAfee, in Mercer County, Kentucky.
The simple and balanced facade of New Providence Presbyterian Church – a double doors flanked by large, 8/8 double-hung sash windows, each bay separated by brick pilasters – formed many of my early architectural preferences. The Flemish bond walls hearken back to an earlier stylistic influence (the Federal) and even the Greek Revival detailing is subdued, but powerful nonetheless in its spareness.
Five windows pierce the side elevations, each bay again separated from the next by a brick pilaster with an elegant, slim capital. I’m not sure what changes have been made to the windows, though the bricks suggest alterations over time.
Rather than monumentality or heaviness of stylistic details, the materials and form of this building speak visually, an arresting representation of vernacular tradition, the “Greek Revival country church.”*
New Providence is one of the oldest Presbyterian congregations in Kentucky, formed in 1784 by David Rice, the first Presbyterian minister in the Commonwealth. Later, the church was heavily involved with the formation of Presbyterian Churches and the governing bodies of the denomination in the state.
My great-great-grandmother, Lucy Renfrew Latta Johnson, attended church in this building. I grew up on stories of Lucy too, and although we have no photographs of her, I see her vividly in my mind. According to family lore, she was independent, strong-willed, lively, and loved horses. When Civil War troops pillaged and stole livestock and horses in the summer of 1863, Lucy’s horse was taken. Somehow, she managed to follow the troops and reclaim her mount – that’s how the story was told to me, anyway.
Many years later, her son (my great-grandfather) would travel to Chattanooga, Tennessee, to try and find the burial location of Lucy’s older brother, who died at the Battle of Missionary Ridge. I like to imagine that Lucy’s quest to recover her horse was fueled by anger and grief over Jimmy’s death. He joined Basil Duke’s 2nd Kentucky Calvary on July 15, 1862, and was dead a month later.
Following the death of John Latta, her first husband, Lucy remarried – to a veteran of the Union army. There were gasps about this, and I can picture Lucy grinning at her detractors and daring them to say something to her.
The interior of New Providence is divided into an entry vestibule with a curved staircase at either end, and the sanctuary, the two aisles of which are accessed by two sets of four-panel double doors with Greek Ear trim. The stairs lead to the gallery, which has been partially enclosed.
I didn’t get to the gallery, as I hadn’t planned on being able to go inside when I pulled over to take a photograph of the church, and my long-suffering mother was waiting in the car. (Yes, she should have known that her history lessons would lead me astray…)
The sanctuary has been modified over the years but the changes don’t detract from the space, which is filled with calmness. The floor has been redone, so that it slopes downward toward the pulpit (eastward) and is higher at the west end, which does cut off some of the door surround.
In the northeast corner of the sanctuary is an organ that was recovered from the former Presbyterian Church in Salvisa, Kentucky – another rural brick church of a later vintage, later turned into an automotive garage.
Unlike the church in Salvisa, which is in poor condition (it may have well fallen down by now), New Providence is still an active church. The membership is nowhere near the high of 1865, when Lucy Renfrew and 344 other people called it their church home. When the building was listed in the National Register of Historic Places, the congregation had dwindled to 70 souls.
I never anticipated being able to venture inside New Providence on happenstance – but I am so happy that I finally got to admire the church from both within and without.
*Guy Newland, New Providence Presbyterian Church. Nomination to the National Register of Historic Places. Listed 1975.
What a lovely church, and interesting article! The Rev. David Rice is one of early Kentucky’s great figures. If he had been successful in his efforts to gradually end slavery in the new state, Kentucky’s history would have been so different.
Thank you Tom! Yes…so much suffering could have been avoided. A good lesson for us all today.
Hi Janie-Rice. This is Tom Duke again.
I enjoyed your article on the New Providence Presbyterian Church very much. My McAfee ancestors, James and his brothers, were some of the earliest members. James gave the land for the church. A number of sons in my Coleman family tree were named for Dr. Thomas Cleland.
Also, on my father’s side, my g-g-g-g grandfather Ephraim January gave the land for the Ebenezer Church and Cemetery in Jessamine County.
I always enjoy your postings very much.
Thank you! Lucy Renfrew’s mother was a Jones, and they settled in the area around McAfee fairly early as well. Clay Lancaster’s Warwick was the Moses Jones house, which is a masterpiece. https://catalog.archives.gov/id/123851421
Hey JANIE. Great story. We are all in this together as ONE church. I think denominations divide us. The Lord wants us together as ONE. Thanks for sharing this story again. I’ll think about it each times I pass that beautiful historical building. My wife and I are the ones that restored the gas station at Shaker on 68. Take care. Great work as always.